Cyprus Mail 15 February 2025 - by Alix Norman
A new poll asks the entire world which of our island’s dishes is the tastiest...
A few weeks ago, we ran a news article on the worst-rated Cypriot food: shamishi!
But who decided shamishi was bloody awful, and how? Why is it universally detested? And, most importantly, what’s the best-rated food in Cyprus – the one dish that locals, expats and visitors can’t get enough of?
Well, the answer to the first question is easy: TasteAtlas decided on shamishi. Each year, this global food mapping platform runs a public poll. Anyone can rate individual dishes, beverages and ingredients. TasteAtlas then crunches the numbers (filtering out overly nationalistic votes or those generated by bots), and we have our answers.
The poll isn’t rigorous. The votes are subjective, influenced by personal taste, cultural familiarity, or even how well-known a dish is internationally. And they’re more likely to come from the foodies who populate the site, rather than the busy families, offline grandmothers and harried chefs who don’t.
Loulla Astin – a celebrity chef, cookery writer, and former host of cooking shows on Sky and the BBC – admits she’s never voted on TasteAtlas; never even heard of the site. “I’m too busy cooking and writing about cooking!” she laughs.
But she does admit to loving shamishi.
“It always reminds me of saints’ days and paniyiris – it’s the sweet of Cyprus festivals. The recipes were always very individual, and very secret; handed down the generations,” she adds. “Perhaps, nowadays, shamishi is seen as a little old-fashioned – maybe that’s why people don’t like it? Or perhaps it’s the semolina – not many people use it anymore.”
Loulla’s personal hate is moungra – fermented cauliflower. “The smell when they opened those jars – ugh!” she grimaces. “I used to run from the village! But I’d run straight back for kleftiko,” she adds. “That was my absolute favourite.”
Loulla’s right on the money, it seems. According to the TasteAtlas poll of the Top Cypriot Foods, kleftiko tops the charts!
Technically, it’s a Greek food, though there’s some disagreement about this, and Loulla reckons it’s more popular in Cyprus. Named for the Klephts – mountain rebels of the Greek Revolution who cooked their stolen meat underground to avoid detection (hence the name, which references the Greek word for thief) kleftiko is a firm favourite in Cyprus: a staple from the mountains of Troodos to the seaside tavernas.
Souvla comes in second (with special mention for Lysiotiki souvla from the village of Lysi). Kefalotyri is third. And fourth is sieftalia.
Halloumi – which you’d think would rank higher – takes fifth place. Stifado is sixth. And loukmades, labneh, loukaniko and afelia round out the top 10.
“Unlike cultures such as Japan, where the cuisine has evolved with minimal outside influence, Cyprus’ food reflects our island’s unique history,” says Loulla. “We’re a nation of travellers and traders, a crossroads of civilisations. A place that’s taken the best of what others have brought – Greek, Turkish and Middle Eastern traditions – and blended them with our own flavours to create something incredible!”
Certainly, Cyprus’ best foods are an amalgamation of cuisines. But what about the best-rated dishes from other cultures?
Well, Australia goes the same way as us: according to TasteAtlas, the best-loved dish from Down Under is salt and pepper calamari: battered squid, lightly seasoned and deep-fried until golden, it draws from both Mediterranean and Chinese culinary traditions.
England’s most loved foods are a little more insular – and dominated by dairy! Clotted cream ice cream, cheddar, cream tea, sticky toffee pudding, Bannoffee pie and Shropshire blue make up the top six foods, before things swing savoury with Beef Wellington, baked potatoes, chips and fisherman’s pie.
South Africa’s best food is, according to the poll, Boerewors. Greece’s is gyros. Germany is all about the bratwurst. And France, of course, is the baguette. Turkey’s is Kahvaltı – an all-encompassing breakfast meal.
Interestingly, the top-rated dish from Italy also takes the number one spot across the entire globe! The simple pizza Napoletana – with its thin crust, rich tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella, and fresh basil – is the world’s favourite food!
But it’s the Greeks who take the top spot for cuisine as a whole. TasteAtlas’ global survey of 2024-2025 suggests that Greek food reigns supreme this year: a perfect and much-loved balance of simplicity, flavour, and tradition.
Cypriot cuisine, in case you were wondering, is ranked 50th this year – floating between the tastes of Ethiopia (beyaynetu, shiro wat and kitfo) and the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia (with its tasty shwarmas, kunafa and hummus).
“The food of Cyprus embraces and celebrates all the communities of our island, be they Greek Cypriot, Turkish Cypriot, Maronite, Armenian, Latin, or migrants looking to make Cyprus their home,” says Carolina Orphanidou who, along with Natalie Toufexis is one half of ‘Cypriotness’.
“But actually, I suspect that Cyprus’ cuisine is actually less about the food and more about the mindset…”
For several years now, these two residents of Switzerland have been sharing the tastes of Cyprus at food markets across Europe. And they have a unique take on what makes a truly ‘Cypriot’ dish.
“Cypriot food is far more than what’s on the plate. Growing up,” Carolina recalls, “when someone knocked at the door during meals, my mother would immediately fetch another plate! Even before the door had been opened, the visitor was made to feel welcome. There was always another spot at the table. And that is the essence of our cuisine.”
Natalie agrees, adding that Cypriot food is all about inclusivity. It’s sharing a meal with family, neighbours and even strangers. “It’s about building longer tables – tables that include more people.
“Kleftiko, halloumi, sieftalia – they’re just facilitators of connection. The real heart of Cypriot cuisine is the community it creates, the warmth it offers, and the stories it tells. You can’t rank that on a list!”
